2021-07-23 16:20:42

Why Beauty ‘Sticks’ Are So Popular

2021-07-23 16:20:42

Stick makeup is not new—but the format’s popularity is on the rise. Max Factor Jr. launched the first Pan-Stik makeup in the 1940s, after his famous dad invented “Pan-Cake” makeup for Hollywood actresses in 1935.

What do stick products look like? Smaller makeup sticks sometimes resemble an oversized lip balm, while some larger body care sticks look like deodorant. Plastic stick packages often come equipped with a dial or twist-up mechanism similar to a lipstick package. Others are simple paper tubes.

Many beauty brands are also working with suppliers to develop innovative designs for refillable stick packages—read on for more about these.

Stick Formats Are a Rising Trend in Beauty

CoverGirl, owned by Coty, like Max Factor, has an innovative stick product—Clean Fresh Cooling Glow Highlighter Stick. The lightweight hydrating formula delivers a cooling sensation to the skin. The brand’s vegan cruelty-free products are formulated without parabens, formaldehyde, phthalates or sulfates.

Stefano Curti, chief brands officer, Consumer Beauty, Coty, says, “We are leveraging CoverGirl’s positioning as the inventor of clean beauty—and will continue to lean into clean innovation. Our new brand positioning is resonating with consumers, and it’s becoming even more clear that clean beauty is what consumers demand.” CoverGirl first debuted an ad with the words ‘clean makeup’ back in 1968.

“The trend for refillable sticks is gaining momentum – for lipsticks or lip care and also as a fast and easy application format for complexion products,” says Rebecca Goswell, global design director, HCP Packaging.

In partnership with Pum-Tech Korea, HCP offers an innovative stick package designed for targeted application-on the-go—the Dual Dial-Less Stick. It features an innovative “twist & click” patented delivery system.

“The portable format holds two 10g sticks, one on each end. It’s perfect for solid makeup and skincare combinations, such as cooling or hydrating balms, illuminators, tints, highlighters and more,” Goswell says.

Denis Maurin, head of global innovation and sales, HCT Group, says more beauty brands are swapping liquid products in bottles for solid stick formats to be more sustainable. “There is increased interest in sticks for skincare, such as face cleanser—as well as foundations and blush,” he says.

Monika Pfeifer, business development manager, Asquan, agrees and says, “There is indeed a big trend in solid cosmetics. During the past few months, however, there was a shift back to lip and face products with formulas having increasingly high volatile ingredients, as well as water-based sticks. And we see a rising demand for airtight sticks for foundation products.” One of Asquan’s ‘hero’ products is its Essential Airtight Stick.

Pierre-Antoine Henry, head of categories at Quadpack, says, “Solid cosmetics and hybrid formulations are booming.” He adds, “Requests for ‘pansticks’ are rising over the past few months.” Quadpack recently developed Cocoa Lip Balm Stick for We Are Feel Good, an Indie brand based in Australia.

Commenting on why sticks are so popular, Henry says, “Sticks offer consumers a new gesture. They are an easy and fun way to apply a solid formula directly, for products that are usually applied with fingertips or brushes.”

Jackie Paterno, vice president of sales, CTK, also sees a rising demand and says, “We see more requests to develop stick formulas for skincare and body care. Our oval stick is great for body products such as body illuminators and sun products.”

Kristen Corso, vice president of marketing, Roberts Beauty, says that consumers are drawn to multi-purpose formulas in easy-to-use packaging—and stick formats check all the boxes. “They are a versatile format, ideal for treatment products or color,” she adds. Roberts Beauty offers its Slim Stick as a single- or double-ended package.

Viva Healthcare Packaging manufactures oval and round deodorant stick packaging with a twist-up dial for solid and soft solid formulations. “They have many applications besides deodorant—such as skincare, haircare, suncare, and makeup formulations,” says Melanie Gaudun, Viva’s business development manager. The supplier’s stick packages are recyclable polypropylene (PP) or plastic made from post-consumer resin (PCR). “Our in-mold label technology provides full coverage over the barrel and cap,” she says.

Hygenic Benefits Fuel Demand

When applying a stick product, consumers can “swipe ‘n go,” which fits with the trend toward minimalist beauty fueled by the Covid pandemic. Stick packaging formats are also appealing now because they don’t require dipping your finger into a jar—possibly contaminating the product with germs.

“Sticks offer a touchless and quick application, so they continue to trend,” says James Farley, executive vice president NA, WWP Beauty. “And in categories like skincare or fragrance where sticks weren’t previously used as often, they allow brands the opportunity to bring innovative solid formats to market that are unique and sensorial,” he explains. WWP offers sticks for solid fragrances with its “groundbreaking” Essence Collection powered by Scentinvent Technologies.

“Additionally,” says Farley, “we have a line of PCR deodorant sticks and a Dual-ended Stick that we featured in our fragrance collection to showcase and promote scent layering,” he adds.

Eleanor Bunting, marketing manager, ICS, says, “Sticks are a way to reduce cross-contamination between products, fingers, and the face. Stick packaging is becoming a more popular request for both skincare and color cosmetics, as consumers are more aware of preventing contamination.”

Lynn Lu, skincare product manager, HCP, agrees and says, “There is a demand for beauty that delivers on hygiene, and enables a “no hands” approach to application.” The portability aspect is also key. “You can throw a solid skincare/SPF stick in your bag and not worry about leakage or breakage,” says Lu. “For all these reasons, the stick trend is really taking off,” she says, “especially for suncare, primers, hybrid products and soothing balms.”

The hygienic benefits of stick products will continue to fuel demand, experts say. Clare Hennigan, senior beauty analyst, Mintel, reports, “Beauty products packaged in ways that eliminate the need to touch one’s face will stand out. Spray and stick formats in both cosmetics and facial skincare—and ‘touchless’ beauty products—will see increased demand.”

Stick Products on the Market

There are all types of stick products on the market. Clinique has an eye makeup remover stick, Peace Out sells a retinol eye stick, and Milk Makeup has an entire line of stick products, including a toner.

Marc Jacobs Beauty has a tinted face stick in an oval-shaped twist-up package. Fenty Beauty has a full line of Match Stix Skinsticks with lots of color options in three types—Shimmer, Matte, and Contour.

Anastasia Beverly Hills has contour and highlight sticks, while Westman Atelier has Cream Contour sticks.

Byredo’s Colour Stick, in sleek silver metal, is a multi-use cream stick with a curved bullet tip to use on cheeks, eyes and lips. E.l.f.’s new Jelly Pop Glow Stick is a hydrating twist-up highlighter. Anastasia Beverly Hills’ popular Contour & Highlight Sticks look luxe in metallized rose gold.

Makeup by Mario, a new brand at Sephora founded by makeup artist Mario Dedivanovic,  has a Soft Sculpt Shaping Stick, Soft Pop Blush Stick, and more. They are double-ended makeup sticks with brushes on one end—and the brushes are removable for easy cleaning.

Marketing Sticks to Men

Skincare—and now makeup—are growing categories within the men’s grooming market, and some say stick products are appealing to male consumers. “The versatility of stick packaging and its effortless application method makes it a no-mess, no-fuss option for male color cosmetics and skincare,” says ICS’ Bunting.

ICS recently worked with Hims to help develop The Blur Stick by Hims. “It’s a sleek, minimal stick package with a flush-fit screw-cap design with an aluminum outer shell,” says Bunting. “It has a 16mm diameter and fits in your pocket easily for on-the-go application,” she says.

The Blur Stick contains jojoba seed oil and aloe extract to soothe and moisturize. It can conceal acne, razor burn, wrinkles, and dark circles. In a campaign photo, athlete and company investor Alex Rodriguez demonstrates how the Blur Stick is perfectly sized to slip into his jeans pocket. “The male grooming market is growing faster than ever, as more men want to smash the stigma surrounding male beauty and skincare,” Bunting adds. 

Refillable Packaging for Stick Products  

Refillable packaging is growing in importance. Beauty brands are coming up with more ways to offer consumers refills for a growing number of products—and design packaging that’s meant to last, not destined for the landfill.

Grove Collaborative chose aluminum for its innovative plastic-free refill system launched in May for its Peach Refillable stick products. The three new stick products are Soothing Body Lotion, All-Over Body Balm, and Deodorant. Refill the round aluminum case by pushing up on the bottom to release the stick, inserting the refill, and rotating it down until it clicks.

Birchbox recently launched a new multi-purpose stick—Beauty Balm, as part of its new in-house brand, “Re.fil.” It’s perfect for moisturizing lips, cuticles, and elbows. The round refillable package is 100% PCR. The refill comes in a paper tube. 

“Refillable sticks tell an impactful sustainability story,” says WWP’s Farley. “We have received many recent requests for refillable packaging for sticks—and we have solutions in nearly every beauty category,” he says. The supplier offers a Refillable Body Stick, ideal for various products, and a Refillable Face Stick, which is perfect for blush, concealer, bronzer and highlighter.

Farley explains that greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions are significantly reduced every time a package is refilled. “When we run our Refillable Body Stick through our Eco Analyzer Tool, we found that after three refills, GHG emissions were reduced by 67%. In comparison to a non-refillable stick of the same size, GHG emissions were reduced by up to 78%,” he explains.

Viva Healthcare Packaging is also onboard with refillable concepts. Viva is developing a refill cartridge system for its deodorant stick packaging and says the refillable case will represent a 50% reduction in resin.

Asquan says its team recently helped launch an award-winning fully customized refillable and recyclable PP deodorant stick. “It redefines sustainable packaging for both looks and function,” says Pfeifer.

HCT Group is developing a refillable concept with different bullet shapes. “It will give brands a more modern take on the old-fashioned deodorant stick,” says Maurin. “We will offer it in many material options, from recyclable plastic and bio-materials to more luxe options,” he says.

Paper Tubes for Sticks 

Many beauty brands are choosing paper packaging over plastic due to environmental concerns and sustainability goals. EiR NYC’s Surf Mud Pro SPF 50 is a high-protection reef-safe water-resistant balm stick. “Swipe it on cheeks, nose, or even lips—it’s so convenient,” says Stacy Haase, CEO, EiR NYC. “Plus, the paper packaging is 100% biodegradable,” she says.

The tube has a paper label, which is easy to customize for a new look. This summer, the team at EiR NYC collaborated with three artists to create its limited edition “summer suncare series.” The label features a different artist’s work each month throughout the summer. The series began with artist Dalek in May, followed by Velia De Iuliis in June and Demi Boelsterli in July.“We love supporting the arts. We wanted to share that love and show that art can always be part of everyday life,” says Haase. Surf Mud Pro’s regular package is shown. See EiR's artist-designed collections.

ICS offers paper packaging options for stick products made with FSC-certified paper. “We can develop paper tubes for sticks in custom dimensions for lip balms, body formulations, and various face formulations, including highlighting, bronzing and concealer,” says Bunting. “They are biodegradable and don’t contain a plastic mechanism inside—so they are fully recyclable and compostable,” she says.

Mono-Material Designs & Recyclable Plastics

When a twist-up or dial-up stick has an inner component made from a second type of plastic, the package becomes a challenge to recycle properly, since it must be taken apart—if that’s possible. To solve this issue, more brands are choosing mono-material packaging. Quadpack offers mono-material stick packages, which are easily recyclable. “We are also extending our range of packs containing PCR materials,” says Henry.

Asquan offers a growing number of sustainable options that are mono-material and can be discarded in one piece. “We also offer stick packages in polyethylene terephthalate (PET) or mono-material PP,” says Pfeiffer.

HCP offers its stock Fragrance Stick in a mono-material package with a PP mechanism. “It’s great for solid fragrance products and allows for edge-to-edge full-color printing,” says Stephanie Rowntree, global product manager, HCP Packaging.

HCT Group offers brands a straight-sided stick that can be made with PCR, and mono-material sticks that allow for easier recycling. “Our 100% PP sticks are great for suncare and body products. We also have a 100% PET foundation stick,” says Maurin. “These components have been optimized for recycling in our current waste streams. It’s best to avoid sprays and vacuum metallization for decoration to ensure recyclability,” he advises.

The team at Viva says requests are on the rise for more sustainable stick packages. “We are getting a lot more interest in more sustainable solutions, including our stick packaging made with high levels of PCR,” Gaudun says. Viva’s mono-material sticks are 100% PP, including the in-mold label. The supplier also offers options in 100% PCR, including the internal mechanisms. “We can also custom color-match the barrel, cap and dial,” Gaudun says.

CTK just launched its new “Bottoms Up” Sticks, in 100% PP. “A common issue with sticks is that there is so much product left over on the inside of the cup—but our Bottoms Up Stick pushes up every last bit of product,” Paterno says. “This feature makes consumers happy, and it is also great for recycling. You don’t have to rinse, just place in the recycle bin,” she says.

ICS also works with brands to develop stick packaging in a variety of sustainable materials. “Our newest mono-material panstick options are available in 100% PP or 100% PET, making them easily classified for recycling and reuse,” says Bunting. “We offer these in standard and slimline sizes, in various styles, including a twist-base,” she says.

Final Tips—and Compatibility Issues

When developing a stick product and packaging, challenges can arise. “To avoid compatibility issues, consider the filling method required for that stick, and be sure the formula is solid enough to avoid breakage or incompatibility with the package,” WWP Beauty’s Farley says.

Asquan’s Pfeifer says she often suggests the most appropriate type of stick formulation and compatible package when a brand is developing a new product. “For a highlighter, for example, we would advise a smaller diameter for a slimmer look,” she says.

In recent years, Asquan’s Pfeifer sees an increasing demand for foundation makeup sticks that require airtight components. “This is why we developed our Essential Sticks, which feature integrated O-rings to make them airtight,” she says.

Quadpack’s plastic stick packaging is made in PP, typically, or Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS), and Henry often advises brands on which is best. “Each of these materials has qualities that are more suitable for certain types of products,” he says. “PP is ideal for water-based formulations for face, eyes, and lips. ABS protects isododecane-based formulas,” he explains. “Both types offer an airtight fit, which helps prevent the product from drying out,” he says.

HCT’s Maurin says the key during product development is finding a balance. “If a stick is too soft, the bullet will not hold its shape. Too hard, and the product won’t feel nice to apply and will be difficult to transfer to the skin,” Maurin says.

ICS’ Bunting says, “We have found that most often, slim sticks are best matched with more solid and waxy formulations, such as eye or lip products. For these, a solid formulation helps ensure the bullet doesn’t break easily when the product is applied. Softer formulations are better suited for larger diameter sticks, such as softer balms for face and body formulations.”

Quadpack’s Henry says there are plenty of formulations that can be a stick format, and the most original ones will attract the most attention. “Have fun with it,” he advises. “We know that Milk Makeup has built a complete skincare range mainly using sticks,” he says, adding, “Creating new gestures for traditional formulas can be a lot of fun and enhance consumer engagement.”